What do you all reckon guys,is it cold damage or variegation?
I know what I'd like it to be
Cycad damage?
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SteveW
Cycad damage?
Noticed earlier this year that my cycas revolutas been damaged by frost,well thats what I presumed it was/is.But looking at it today I'm not so sure
If it was frost damage then wouldn't it be brown and crispy?instead of it looking well....variegated?
What do you all reckon guys,is it cold damage or variegation?
I know what I'd like it to be
If it was frost damage then wouldn't it be brown and crispy?instead of it looking well....variegated?What do you all reckon guys,is it cold damage or variegation?
I know what I'd like it to be
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palmking
Re: Cycad damage?
No!, that's frost/cold damage indeed. Browning has occurred to one of mine with established leaves. White necrosis usually occurs to younger leaves that haven't had a chance to harden up. Did you have a flush this year?
Leave it alone and try an protect it for the rest of the winter . Put a thermal bag over it lightly sub zero temps are expected . It will worsen if you don't protect it. Cycads can be buried(caudex) for added protection but I wouldn't recommend it unless in a very free draining soil .Best to cover the caudex with leaves or even better dead conifer leaves-These are thermally retentive.The plant can grow new leaves but if it's cold enough to damage the caudex, the plant will die. If the caudex is spongy, its time for a funeral !!
If you have a late flush, you must protect the leaves . My larger one 1 year got white necrosis to all its new flush. The following year , again late flush. I put a small thermal bag, the ones with ties loosely around it - tied at the caudex - all winter and no damage. It didn't flush the next year but I didn't need to protect the leaves.
The caudex on Revoluta is hardier than the leaves . I've trimmed the leaves of one in the past and rotten roots as it had been sitting in poor drainage and fertilised it well with a High nitrogen feed and it's thrown up a flush in the past.
It is possible to cut a section of root from a cycad and grow a new plant from it.
In fact I once received a Macrozamia Moorei, germinated seed in the post with a long tap root broken in two . What did I do ? I dipped the broken end of the root , still attached to the seed in Natural rooting gel and planted it in a small pot with seedling compost at a temperature of 25c in my propogator and it started growing from the broken end and sprouted its first leaf within a couple of weeks. They are pretty amazing plants!! - Prehistoric survival mechanisms???? in action.
My other larger plant is under a dry canopy and has almost no damage whatsoever but it hasn't flushed for two years. New leaves will whiten readily if the plant leaf tissue is still soft.
I think the chinese have been able to produce variegation on cycads and all manner of strange hybrids but that isn't variegation i'm afraid!
Leave it alone and try an protect it for the rest of the winter . Put a thermal bag over it lightly sub zero temps are expected . It will worsen if you don't protect it. Cycads can be buried(caudex) for added protection but I wouldn't recommend it unless in a very free draining soil .Best to cover the caudex with leaves or even better dead conifer leaves-These are thermally retentive.The plant can grow new leaves but if it's cold enough to damage the caudex, the plant will die. If the caudex is spongy, its time for a funeral !!
If you have a late flush, you must protect the leaves . My larger one 1 year got white necrosis to all its new flush. The following year , again late flush. I put a small thermal bag, the ones with ties loosely around it - tied at the caudex - all winter and no damage. It didn't flush the next year but I didn't need to protect the leaves.
The caudex on Revoluta is hardier than the leaves . I've trimmed the leaves of one in the past and rotten roots as it had been sitting in poor drainage and fertilised it well with a High nitrogen feed and it's thrown up a flush in the past.
It is possible to cut a section of root from a cycad and grow a new plant from it.
In fact I once received a Macrozamia Moorei, germinated seed in the post with a long tap root broken in two . What did I do ? I dipped the broken end of the root , still attached to the seed in Natural rooting gel and planted it in a small pot with seedling compost at a temperature of 25c in my propogator and it started growing from the broken end and sprouted its first leaf within a couple of weeks. They are pretty amazing plants!! - Prehistoric survival mechanisms???? in action.
My other larger plant is under a dry canopy and has almost no damage whatsoever but it hasn't flushed for two years. New leaves will whiten readily if the plant leaf tissue is still soft.
I think the chinese have been able to produce variegation on cycads and all manner of strange hybrids but that isn't variegation i'm afraid!
Last edited by palmking on Sun Feb 15, 2009 1:04 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Cycad damage?
I was going to post a picture of mine showing it before and after the frost but for some reason the forum is not allowing me to highlight the image address or even to correct words on here.
John
Have now gone in to edit mode and its working again.
My plant has been frost fried but I am confident it will look good by June after a severe haircut and a good cooking in the greenhouse. (Not oven)
John
Have now gone in to edit mode and its working again.
My plant has been frost fried but I am confident it will look good by June after a severe haircut and a good cooking in the greenhouse. (Not oven)
Last edited by John P on Sun Feb 15, 2009 1:06 am, edited 1 time in total.
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palmking
Re: Cycad damage?
yes I noticed that - use your cursor keys to move around to edit - This fault has been evident for a number of days now!John P wrote:I was going to post a picture of mine showing it before and after the frost but for some reason the forum is not allowing me to highlight the image address or even to correct words on here.
John
That's a nice plant John! It's still alive and kicking. As you say, a good haircut in spring will do the trick . I probably wouldn't remove all the leaves but it won't kill the plant, at least from my experience and it will direct energy to the growing point.I'd remove the older leaves.
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SteveW
Re: Cycad damage?
You're right on the money,it did flush last year.I thought it had had enough time to harden off,obviously I was wrong 
I had been protecting it with fleece,but there has been the odd incident with the fleece being blown of it by the wind.Same goes for my b.edulis
How big a piece of root would you need too take a cutting?
I've got a couple of panzithingames( no way I can spell that name now is there)that I'd like to try that on
cheers
Steve
I had been protecting it with fleece,but there has been the odd incident with the fleece being blown of it by the wind.Same goes for my b.edulis
How big a piece of root would you need too take a cutting?
I've got a couple of panzithingames(
no way I can spell that name now is there)that I'd like to try that on cheers
Steve
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Nigel Fear
Re: Cycad damage?
I have a large C.Revoluta about the size of John's there, and a pair of smaller ones.
The largest is too heavy to put away so I cover it with one of those Hessian builders bags when a long spell of frost is imminent, though they have all seen a bit of frost and snow from time to time.
The largest is too heavy to put away so I cover it with one of those Hessian builders bags when a long spell of frost is imminent, though they have all seen a bit of frost and snow from time to time.
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Axel
Re: Cycad damage?
Thanks for this detailed info Palmking. Im curious to know why your bigger cycas hasnt flushed for 2 years. Is the canopy providing shadow, and is the smaller one in full sun? I presume you have both been feeding high N.palmking wrote:No!, that's frost/cold damage indeed. Browning has occurred to one of mine with established leaves. White necrosis usually occurs to younger leaves that haven't had a chance to harden up. Did you have a flush this year?
Leave it alone and try an protect it for the rest of the winter . Put a thermal bag over it lightly sub zero temps are expected . It will worsen if you don't protect it. Cycads can be buried(caudex) for added protection but I wouldn't recommend it unless in a very free draining soil .Best to cover the caudex with leaves or even better dead conifer leaves-These are thermally retentive.The plant can grow new leaves but if it's cold enough to damage the caudex, the plant will die. If the caudex is spongy, its time for a funeral !!
If you have a late flush, you must protect the leaves . My larger one 1 year got white necrosis to all its new flush. The following year , again late flush. I put a small thermal bag, the ones with ties loosely around it - tied at the caudex - all winter and no damage. It didn't flush the next year but I didn't need to protect the leaves.
The caudex on Revoluta is hardier than the leaves . I've trimmed the leaves of one in the past and rotten roots as it had been sitting in poor drainage and fertilised it well with a High nitrogen feed and it's thrown up a flush in the past.
It is possible to cut a section of root from a cycad and grow a new plant from it.
In fact I once received a Macrozamia Moorei, germinated seed in the post with a long tap root broken in two . What did I do ? I dipped the broken end of the root , still attached to the seed in Natural rooting gel and planted it in a small pot with seedling compost at a temperature of 25c in my propogator and it started growing from the broken end and sprouted its first leaf within a couple of weeks. They are pretty amazing plants!! - Prehistoric survival mechanisms???? in action.
My other larger plant is under a dry canopy and has almost no damage whatsoever but it hasn't flushed for two years. New leaves will whiten readily if the plant leaf tissue is still soft.
I think the chinese have been able to produce variegation on cycads and all manner of strange hybrids but that isn't variegation i'm afraid!
regards,
Axel
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palmking
Re: Cycad damage?
My larger one is under a dry canopy , south west facing. Not sure why it's not flushed. It has a regular High Nitrogen feed in Spring/Summer. Just unlucky! , though I suspect the soil around the plant at the roots is too devoid of nutrients and in the free draining mixture the nitrogen is lost to the soil below. That's my theory. I'll be modifying it this year. This bed is dry all year and is where I keep my agave/Yucca collection.
The smaller one was moved temporarily to a south west location in Rich compost , though well drained soil and fed and instantly threw up a flush.
How large a piece of root? I've checked on my research and found this link again, Might be useful.It shows how a damaged caudex can be cut and propogated.Not quite growth from a root section but the simple ancient genetic code & principles of this plant and my success with my macrozamia leads me to believe you should produce be able to produce a cloned plant.I'm sure i've read elsewhere about root propogation but I haven't found the link again yet. I'd only do this on a damaged plant and only if a good section of root can be salvaged .Maybe 7.5 - 10cm .
http://www.plantapalm.com/Vce/horticult ... owaway.htm
PS I've got 3 Cycas Panzihuaensis seedlings , 2 of which are for sale , from my Website. But they're not at all as fast growing as the literature will tell you in our climate!!!!
I've also a small dioon edule for sale.Even hardier potentially but must be kept dry in winter.
Paul
The smaller one was moved temporarily to a south west location in Rich compost , though well drained soil and fed and instantly threw up a flush.
How large a piece of root? I've checked on my research and found this link again, Might be useful.It shows how a damaged caudex can be cut and propogated.Not quite growth from a root section but the simple ancient genetic code & principles of this plant and my success with my macrozamia leads me to believe you should produce be able to produce a cloned plant.I'm sure i've read elsewhere about root propogation but I haven't found the link again yet. I'd only do this on a damaged plant and only if a good section of root can be salvaged .Maybe 7.5 - 10cm .
http://www.plantapalm.com/Vce/horticult ... owaway.htm
PS I've got 3 Cycas Panzihuaensis seedlings , 2 of which are for sale , from my Website. But they're not at all as fast growing as the literature will tell you in our climate!!!!
I've also a small dioon edule for sale.Even hardier potentially but must be kept dry in winter.
Paul
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tai haku
Re: Cycad damage?
Palmking - your URL wasn't working but I presume the excellent Tom Broome article was the intended link:
http://www.plantapalm.com/vce/horticult ... owaway.htm
On a related note this article on leaf cutting growth in Stangeria and Microcycas may be of interest:
http://www.plantapalm.com/vce/horticult ... ulture.pdf
http://www.plantapalm.com/vce/horticult ... owaway.htm
On a related note this article on leaf cutting growth in Stangeria and Microcycas may be of interest:
http://www.plantapalm.com/vce/horticult ... ulture.pdf
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palmking
Re: Cycad damage?
Thanks! Tai! and welcome -Where in the Caribbean do you hail from?
You must show us some pics of your garden/surroundings.
Paul
You must show us some pics of your garden/surroundings.
Paul
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tai haku
Re: Cycad damage?
Your wish is my command Paul:palmking wrote:Thanks! Tai! and welcome -Where in the Caribbean do you hail from?
You must show us some pics of your garden/surroundings.
Paul
http://www.hardytropicals.co.uk/forum/v ... f=1&t=4082