Yes Si, I mean diameter. A mature robusta has a swollen base of about 60cm , with the bulk of the trunk at around 30cm.Si wrote: I've got one (WR) and put it in the ground at the beginning of August. I'm definately going to winter protect it with a vengence for the next three winters, even though it's dimensions are..."Diameter at base is 26cm"
Base of trunk circumference 68cms
Top of trunk circumference 28cms
Height of trunk 65cms (55cms when bought)
Total height with leaves 6ft
You do mean Diameter and not circumference Dave?
Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
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Re: Washingtonia's any pics of wrapping technique? and how soon?
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Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
Bloody hell Dave, only a three month wait on that one
thanks anyway mate
I think it's bigger than when I measured it in Sept when I posted this though
thanks anyway mate
I think it's bigger than when I measured it in Sept when I posted this though
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Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
Better late than never
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- redsquirrel
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Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
thanks for the link dave,some pretty interesting stuff in there,going back to 2007
mars ROVER broken down. headgasket faillure
Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
This is a great thread, especially Dave's chart on calculating the hardiness of your washy.
I'm just bumping it for the Codfather.
I'm just bumping it for the Codfather.
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Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
So Simon said his survived in a pot being moved mext to his house.....I could put it in the Garage if it gets really bad and just run a fan, in conjuction with a heater for cirulation.
AKA - Martin
Wish list - Big Palms or Dicksonia antarctica's but open to anything really.....Cash Waiting !
Wish list - Big Palms or Dicksonia antarctica's but open to anything really.....Cash Waiting !
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Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
HERE is a link to the Washingtonia 2009/10 protection topic
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Dave
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Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
I've got 28 Robustas in the backyard here in Atlanta, Georgia. You can imagine how much time it takes to cover them all. I took some 1/2 rebar and drove it into the ground a foot or so away from the palms, then covered the frames with 6mil clear plastic. I thought for sure that this would be enough, since it felt quite a bit warmer inside than in the howling wind. To my surprise, I saw the next morning that a third of them had some yellowing of the new spike-frond and second youngest frond. The rest of the fronds turned a darker green and after two days of -14C, they are turning brown. The rest look to be in decent shape, but we'll see after tonight's record-setting cold snap how they'll fare. So much for a "mild" winter. The weather guys were way off the mark on this one. Good grief, it's not even winter yet. Here's the kicker - I left 3 totally uncovered and so far they have the least damage of all the palms. I'm a little baffled by this. I'll let you know tomorrow how these 3 turn out. It's supposed to be around - 16C tonight with the wind chill.
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Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
Hi Washielover, and welcome
Washingtonia robusta hardiness improves with size, and small ones cannot take more than a couple of degrees below freezing. They also dislike lack of airflow and can develop rots under cover.
The plastic may stop windchill but is not a very good insulator. I would have used several layers of fleece as the protection with the plastic over the top to stop rain and snow. The plastic would need to be removed or the sides raised in all but below freezing temps.
-14C is very cold for even mature trunk diameter W. robusta without additional warmth, so I would have used rope light under the fleece. I suspect that even under the plastic temps would have fallen to -10C, so the fact the young palms have reacted so quickly, means that they have been severely damaged, if not fatally.
I take it these temps are not normal for your area?
Washingtonia robusta hardiness improves with size, and small ones cannot take more than a couple of degrees below freezing. They also dislike lack of airflow and can develop rots under cover.
The plastic may stop windchill but is not a very good insulator. I would have used several layers of fleece as the protection with the plastic over the top to stop rain and snow. The plastic would need to be removed or the sides raised in all but below freezing temps.
-14C is very cold for even mature trunk diameter W. robusta without additional warmth, so I would have used rope light under the fleece. I suspect that even under the plastic temps would have fallen to -10C, so the fact the young palms have reacted so quickly, means that they have been severely damaged, if not fatally.
I take it these temps are not normal for your area?
Best regards
Dave
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Dave
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Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
Thanks for the welcoming, Dave. Glad to see I'm not the only one trapped on a make believe tropical island!
Not at all normal temps for this time of year. We're supposed to be in the 50's this time of year with lows slightly above freezing. I went out there this morning to check on the munchkins. 20 of the 28 are still green and fighting the good fight. My heart breaks for the others. Their core fronds still has green in them, but with yellow streaks. Is it summer yet?
Not at all normal temps for this time of year. We're supposed to be in the 50's this time of year with lows slightly above freezing. I went out there this morning to check on the munchkins. 20 of the 28 are still green and fighting the good fight. My heart breaks for the others. Their core fronds still has green in them, but with yellow streaks. Is it summer yet?
Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
Quick question. Has anyone noticed the interesting colouring on the Robustas when they're freezing? They go dark green, then when the temperature rises above freezing point, they get a "blocky" appearance along the veins in the fronds. When the sun has been working on them enough, the color goes back to normal. With this deep freeze I hoped all day that the yellow on some of the new fronds would do the same, but only the edges remained green. The yellow is there to stay, I'm afraid. 2/3 of the 28 looks to be doing OK though. The ones I didn't cover at all last night, looks to be much less affected than the protected ones. I left areas open for ventalation, but some of them had that really raw planty smell, almost like stripped sugarcane. One can only but hold on at this point. I opened them up this afternoon for tonight's low of 17F. The dead ones will be replaced with Windmill Palms. I can't freak out about dying babies every winter.
Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
I'm surprised about your winter lows, I would have thought that was very unusual. Sorry about your palms, but if the cold isn't prolonged, most might be alright. I guess you will find out when things warm up again. Over here we have to wait until may/june to find out the winter damage but I guess you will know a lot sooner.
I would have thought you could grow lots of palms over there, but I don't really know your climate. I guess with all that summer warmth things will grow pretty quickly.
Not sure windmill palms will like your summer heat, they are more suited to temperate climates.
Maybe you could try butias instead?
I would have thought you could grow lots of palms over there, but I don't really know your climate. I guess with all that summer warmth things will grow pretty quickly.
Not sure windmill palms will like your summer heat, they are more suited to temperate climates.
Maybe you could try butias instead?
Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
wow just looked at your average conditions for winter, you can get some serious lows!!!
Maybe you should try the trachycarpus (windmill palm) after all!
Maybe you should try the trachycarpus (windmill palm) after all!
Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
In regards to warding off rot would Vitax Sulphur brushed all over a washys trunk (ensete style) and growing point help when it is kept under cover?
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Re: Washingtonia's Protection Discussion
I don't think putting on the trunk will do much, but puffing it down around the leaf bases and over the spears may help. The other thing is not to allow stagnent air by having a fan running in any enclosure.
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Dave
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