Electrical output in greenhouse

[maritimesbob]

Looking to have a fan/heater/frost beater running in the greenhouse on the coldest nights and to help keep the air moving. The greenhouse is located near the garage rear door, about 3 metres from power socket.

I know the easiest option would be to run an extension cord from the garage to the greenhouse and just tidy the cable away from harms reach, but is this safe?

Greenhouses are a damp environment considering the condensation aspect. I'm worried about damp getting inside the plug/socket end of the extension.

What are most people doing to get their heater/fans rigged up in their greenhouses?

Have to find some time to get bubble wrapping in the next few days, mind you I am not too concerned about hard frosts yet. Hopefully we won't see those until after Xmas.

[musabasjoos]

I'm not heating a greenhouse, but i have a permanent socket outside with a circuit breaker at the plug end.

[pdid]

Probably be ok but as Darren says should be on either a breaker or a fused spur.

[Adrian]

Any electric running outside needs a circuit breaker fitted, also put a waterproof socket on the end of the lead in the greenhouse.
The fused spur is no good, it has to be a circuit breaker, some are fitted at the fuse board but if you have an older board then you must fit a breaker inside, either a plug in type or hard wired.

[Nigel Fear]

You could get an armoured outdoor power kit for there Bob, they often come with a circuit breaker,and the extended end, has a flap that encloses whatever it is you choose to plug into it, and of course you'll have it in the greenhouse too, for added protection from the elements.

[Adrian]

One point though, if using a waterproof socket (and you should do so) then some of the moulded plugs wont let the lid shut fully and then you dont get the full waterproof seal.
You might need to cut off a moulded plug and rewire using a standard plug.

Like Nige said, you can buy the whole set up pre-wired with armoured cable from any DIY store but these are quite expensive.

[maritimesbob]

I'm going to buy the cable (heavy type) and plugs and put it together myself. I was going to buy some kind of tubing to put the cable through.

I'll check out my local hardware store for the waterproof socket and also a plugin breaker.

What kind of breaker rating should I be aiming for?

[Adrian]

No idea what rating, Im a carpenter not a sparky so as far as Im concerned then a circuit breaker is a circuit breaker

[grub]

I'm a sparky though , use M.K. Masterseal sockets and all your worries can be dismissed . (Personally I'd avoid any of the cheap 'n nasty own brand ones)

[Libby]

I use something similar to thishttp://www.amazon.co.uk/Outdoor-Portabl ... B003O30KA0 with a circuit breaker at the main socket!

[pdid]

Hmmm, I have both external waterproof sockets and an external feed powering outdoor lighting, both are on spurs (located inside) and both were fitted by qualified sparky`s. They go through a breakers on the circuit board one via downstairs socket ring and one via the conservatory socket ring.

Is this incorrect/ dangerous?

[Dave Brown]

Having worked with mains most of my working life, had numerous 240v shocks, melted a metal jumper zip, while wearing the jumper , blown the ends off screwdrivers, and multimeter probes I am probably a bit more lax than most, but I won't say any more than that on here.

A trip is a must, not a fuse. The trip detects power going out, and not coming back.... which means it is going somewhere else and trips. There are different speeds, and I think 30ms is fairly standard now. A fuse blows when an overcurrent situation occurs. It is just these are very slow by comparison, and YOU will probably blow before the fuse does.

[Adrian]

Hmmm, I have both external waterproof sockets and an external feed powering outdoor lighting, both are on spurs (located inside) and both were fitted by qualified sparky`s. They go through a breakers on the circuit board one via downstairs socket ring and one via the conservatory socket ring.

Is this incorrect/ dangerous?

You may well have an RCD protected fuse board in which case youre covered, if not then

I finished full time kitchen fitting because the new 'part P' regs were just too much for a chippy to really comply with, also I couldnt be arsed to do the 17th edition as Im convinced its just another money making thing and the electrics I worked with just didnt warrant doing all the compliances that were required by a national kitchen company, mind you I know of plenty of sparks not 'part P' registered

Anyway thats an aside, garden electrics need to be made safe.

[pdid]

Cheers Adrian, yeah I have an RCD on the CB so i`m covered phew

In most cases newly introduced regulations are all about making money. Basic electrics can be undertaken anyone with an ounce of common sense.

Having to be part p registered and provide safety certificates for changing a light switch or light fitting is quite frankly ridiculous.

[Dave Brown]

I inadvertantly found a way around part p, as it only applies to hard wired circuits. If the curcuit goes to a wired plug and socket it is regarded as an appliance. I just unplugged all my external electrics for part p testing